DURHAM, NH — Maple syrup is an important business in New Hampshire.
The state produces about 90,000 gallons of the sweet liquid every year.
Climate change is now threatening the future of the industry.
Researchers and students at the University of New Hampshire are looking into how this Granite State tradition can be preserved.
“To produce sap, we want freezing temperatures at night and then up to 40 degrees during the day,” UNH Woodlands Manager Stephen Eisenhaure explained to a group of forestry students while out in the woods of Durham.
Students like Maggie Enoch like this hands-on approach to learning. “It’s the highlight of the week to come out here for three hours.”
On this day, they’re gathering sap from a network of about 50 maple trees.
It takes about 40 gallons of sap to create a single gallon of syrup.
“I think one of the students put it best that when you’re out here doing it, you really gain a real appreciation for how much time and work goes into it,” said Eisenhaure.
Micheal Hines, a student from Franklin, MA added, “This is just a storied New England tradition. Maple sugaring goes back as far as there’s been settlement here, and even before that. And so, it’s really powerful to be part of something, especially in a changing climate where this is not something that will be available to us within our lifetime in this part of US.”
Keeping sugaring alive is important for the state’s agricultural sector.
Steven Roberge, a professor of natural resources, said “Sugaring,
producing maple syrup, is a great component, a great addition to the farm portfolio. So, it really diversifies what they do. It’s a nice addition to a slow time of year for a typical farmer.”
Students enjoy the fruits of their labor by getting a taste test as the sap is boiled down.
Patrick Schroeck said, “It’s very sweet. It’s very warm, but it’s very good. Very good.”
The students are very engaged in the process and having a good time, but Roberge said: “There is a lot of underlying science that we’re teaching the students when it comes to forest ecology, tree physiology, and forest management.”
Ph. D candidate David Moore is taking things a step further, researching whether sap from other trees might be less environmentally fickle than red maples and could supplement the overall industry in the future.
“There are all these different flavors that you can find in these different types of syrups. It’s pretty exciting. Chefs and a lot of consumers are kind of excited about it.”
He’s created syrup from Norway Maple, Black Walnut, and Paper Birch trees.
Moore thinks the overall industry would benefit from diversification, particularly if weather becomes a bigger and bigger factor.
“I think maybe the most important reason is that a good year for maple may be a poor year for birch and vice versa. So, if you’re tapping multiple species, it’s kind of like a way to diversify your portfolio a little bit.”
Moore says some of these variations are already starting to catch on in other areas.
For example, the birch syrup industry is already pretty big in Alaska and parts of Canada.
This is a developing story. Check back for updates as more information becomes available.
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